Today I have the results from the 3rd attempt to match a color from a photograph.

The 100% cotton at the top is the same cotton I used in the 2nd attempt. The big difference was in batching the 2nd attempt for 4 or 5 hours vs batching this 3rd attempt for 48 hours. I got a closer match with the 2nd attempt for this cotton - however - look at the marked difference in the other fabrics. They are appreciably darker.
Everything was dyed at 3% DOS. I weighed each piece of fabric and calculated the water and dye concentrate amounts for each piece, and they were dyed in separate containers. The fabric was placed into their containers dry. All were batched for the same amount of time, rinsed, washed, boiled and ironed the same, but what a difference in color.
The upper right corner of the cotton/bamboo blend fabric is almost a perfect match. I’m thrilled.
The next fabric swatch 60% linen and 40% cotton is pretty close also.
The other fabrics are not great matches, but that’s all right. I learned a lot, plus I got to try a lot of new fabrics.
My conclusions?
It’s a lot of work trying to match colors from a photograph. It can be done though, and I actually enjoyed the attempts. I met a lot of nice people, discovered a lot of new color analysis websites, and my high school algebra came in very handy.
Basically, I selected a color and used the dropper in my paint program to isolate it. That gave me the Hex number.
Next, I got the cyan, magenta and yellow percentages for the color from http://web.forret.com/tools/color.asp?RGB=%23FDD26C
From there, I went to Oulu’s dye applet http://www.student.oulu.fi/~oniemita/dye/dyemixer/ and selected my blue, red and yellow dyes using the percentages from the forret website.
This is where a little dye experience comes in handy. The blues are a bit different from each other. So are the 2 reds, and the yellows. It takes a little practice to know which ones will combine to create the color you’ve selected.
Additionally, I found when I thought I had a perfect match - eyeballing it - I really didn’t. I used the print screen capture to copy the dye applet color into my paint program. Then I used the dropper to compare the R,G,B values. They were always off. It took a bit of tweaking, but evenutally I changed the dye applet percentages just right to be very close match.
From there, I mixed the dye powders needed to creat the color all the same - 1 gram of dye powder to 100 ml of water. This made it very easy to do the math. If I needed 51% of turquoise, 30% of fuchsia, and 19% golden yellow, it was easy to measure 51 ml of the turquoise dye concentrate, 30 ml of fuchsia, and 19 ml of golden yellow into another container. Voila!!! There was the combination I’d need to dye my fabric.
The amount of this mixed dye concentrate varied by fabric weight, but it was easy to measure the correct amount for each fabric from my customized dye concentrate container.
Is this for the faint of heart? No, but it’s doable. It does help to have some experience with dyeing. I use scales and measure all my dye powder by weight. It gives consistent results and satisfies the mad scientist that is hiding in a remote section of my psyche.
By the way, I opened an account with Robert Kaufman just so I could try dyeing all these wonderful fabrics. Everything was PFD, and I used 100% cotton for the first one, Panda for the second, Handkerchief Linen, then Essex, Voile, and Radiance. PFD fabric is great - no pre scouring required and gorgeous results.